London's iconic Veeraswamy, the United Kingdom's oldest surviving Indian restaurant, is facing potential closure after 99 years of operation. The restaurant, located on Regent Street since 1926, is embroiled in a dispute with the Crown Estate, which owns the building, Victory House. The Crown Estate plans to reclaim the restaurant's space to expand the ground floor reception area for offices on the upper floors, refusing to renew Veeraswamy's lease.
Veeraswamy's co-owner, Ranjit Mathrani, is contesting the decision in court. He argues that the restaurant has a protected tenancy status, granting it enhanced legal rights. Mathrani fears that forcing the restaurant to relocate without a suitable alternative would lead to job losses and business disruption. He is asking for two years to find a new location to ensure business continuity, warning that closure could "effectively destroy a major London institution".
The Crown Estate, however, asserts its duty to generate value for the nation while acting as responsible stewards of a historic part of London. They claim that a comprehensive refurbishment of Victory House is necessary, including a major upgrade to the offices and improving the entrance to make it more accessible. According to the Crown Estate, the limited options available in the listed building necessitate removing the restaurant's entrance, making it impossible to extend the lease. The proposed changes would give an extra 11 square meters to the office reception area.
In response to the approved plans by Westminster City Council, the Soho Society has submitted an application to designate Veeraswamy as an Asset of Community Value (ACV). This designation could protect the restaurant by imposing restrictions and potentially delaying the redevelopment plans.
Veeraswamy's history is as rich as its menu. Founded by Edward Palmer in 1926, the restaurant aimed to introduce authentic Indian flavors to London. Palmer's heritage was a blend of British nobility and Mughal royalty; his great-grandfather was General William Palmer, and his great-grandmother was the Mughal Princess Faisan Nissa Begum. Over the decades, Veeraswamy has hosted a galaxy of prominent figures, including Jawaharlal Nehru, Indira Gandhi, Charlie Chaplin, Winston Churchill, Marlon Brando, and Queen Elizabeth II. In 2017, the restaurant was awarded a Michelin star, a testament to its culinary excellence.
The potential closure of Veeraswamy has sparked concern among those who value its historical and cultural significance. Mathrani has expressed his belief that the royal family would be unhappy to see the restaurant close, emphasizing its importance as a living piece of history. A petition has been organized and signed by thousands, which will be presented to the King.
As the legal battle continues, the future of Veeraswamy remains uncertain. The court hearing, expected in spring or early summer next year, will determine whether the restaurant can secure a lease extension. Until then, Veeraswamy continues to operate, hoping to celebrate its centennial in its historic location.
