The recent unveiling of a sandal design by Prada during Milan Fashion Week has ignited a controversy, drawing accusations of cultural appropriation from India. The design in question bears a striking resemblance to the Kolhapuri chappal, a traditional handcrafted leather slipper with origins tracing back to 12th-century Maharashtra and Karnataka. The incident has sparked a debate about cultural sensitivity, intellectual property rights, and the ethical responsibilities of global luxury brands.

The uproar began when images of Prada's open-toe, braided leather sandals, simply labeled as "leather sandals," circulated online. Observers quickly pointed out the unmistakable similarity to Kolhapuri chappals, footwear deeply rooted in Indian culture and heritage. Kolhapuri chappals are handcrafted unisex leather sandals traditionally made by artisans in the Kolhapur district of Maharashtra and parts of Karnataka. These sandals are known for their distinctive braided leather straps, intricate cutwork, durable construction, and timeless craftsmanship. In 2019, they were granted a Geographical Indication (GI) tag, legally recognizing them as a traditional product from specific regions in Maharashtra and Karnataka. This tag protects products originating from a specific region, known for their unique features attributable to their geography, materials, and traditional know-how.

The lack of acknowledgment of the Indian origin of the design by Prada fueled the flames of the controversy. Critics argued that Prada was appropriating a traditional craft without giving due credit to the artisans who have preserved it for generations. The price disparity between Prada's sandals, reportedly priced at over ₹1 lakh (approximately $1,200 USD), and the Kolhapuri chappals, available in Indian markets for around ₹500 (approximately $12 USD), further intensified the criticism.

The controversy quickly gained traction on social media, with many users accusing Prada of cultural theft. Indian artisans and lawmakers also voiced their concerns, demanding recognition for the cultural heritage behind the design. BJP MP Dhananjay Mahadik led a group of Kolhapuri chappal artisans to meet with Maharashtra Chief Minister Devendra Fadnavis, seeking action to protect the footwear's GI rights and cultural importance. The Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry and Agriculture (MACCIA) also took notice, with president Lalit Gandhi writing to Prada to express concerns.

Faced with mounting criticism, Prada eventually acknowledged the Indian inspiration behind its sandal design. Lorenzo Bertelli, Prada Group Head of Corporate Social Responsibility, stated that the sandals featured in the recent Prada Men's 2026 Fashion Show are inspired by traditional Indian handcrafted footwear with a centuries-old heritage. He added that Prada deeply recognizes the cultural significance of such Indian craftsmanship and is open to a dialogue for meaningful exchange with local Indian artisans.

While some have welcomed Prada's acknowledgment as a step in the right direction, others remain skeptical. Some artisans expressed disappointment at the lack of credit, while others welcomed the global exposure. Critics argue that Prada's response was belated and only came after significant public and political pressure. They also point out that this is not an isolated incident, as other global brands have been accused of appropriating Indian designs in the past.

The Prada sandal controversy underscores the growing need for greater awareness and sensitivity towards cultural heritage in the fashion industry. It highlights the importance of giving credit where it is due and ensuring that local artisans and communities benefit from the commercialization of their traditional crafts. The incident also raises questions about the effectiveness of existing intellectual property protections, such as GI tags, in preventing cultural appropriation and safeguarding the interests of artisans in a globalized marketplace. As the conversation around decolonizing fashion and ethical consumption gains momentum, it is crucial for luxury brands to engage in meaningful dialogue with artisan communities and adopt responsible design practices that respect and celebrate cultural diversity.