The recent controversy surrounding Prada's Spring/Summer 2026 menswear collection, which featured sandals strikingly similar to India's traditional Kolhapuri chappals, has sparked a significant debate about cultural appropriation and the protection of Geographical Indication (GI) rights. Union Commerce and Industry Minister Piyush Goyal has weighed in on the matter, asserting that India will receive due credit for its unique cultural products, particularly in light of the newly signed Free Trade Agreement (FTA) with the United Kingdom.
Goyal emphasized the government's commitment to safeguarding and promoting Indian cultural products in the global market. He highlighted the swift action taken by the Commerce Ministry when Prada was accused of infringing on GI rights associated with Kolhapuri chappals. Kolhapuri chappals, handcrafted leather sandals with an intricate interwoven pattern dating back to the 12th century, are legally recognized as a traditional product from specific districts in Maharashtra and Karnataka, having received a GI tag in 2019. This tag prevents unauthorized commercial use of the name "Kolhapuri Chappal" within India.
The controversy erupted when Prada showcased the sandals, described merely as "leather sandals," during Milan Fashion Week, without acknowledging the Indian origin or the artisans behind the design. This omission led to accusations of cultural appropriation and sparked outrage among Indian fashion critics, craftspeople, and politicians. The Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce has since decided to patent the Kolhapuri chappals to prevent future global copyright infringement.
Prada has responded to the allegations by acknowledging that its sandal designs were inspired by traditional Indian footwear. However, the luxury fashion house denied violating GI rights, asserting that it did not use the term "Kolhapuri" or any related GI markings in the naming, marketing, or display of its sandals. Prada's legal team stated that the sandals are broadly described as "leather sandals" without any suggestion that they originate from the GI-designated region or replicate the traditional Kolhapuri manufacturing technique.
Despite Prada's defense, the incident has underscored the importance of cultural sensitivity and the need for international brands to recognize and respect the intellectual property rights of artisans and traditional communities. The furor surrounding the "Prada Kolhapuri sandals" has also highlighted the power of India's online community in calling out cultural appropriation and holding international brands accountable.
The incident has prompted calls for stronger international protections for GI-tagged products and for luxury brands to adopt fair trade collaborations with artisan groups. Goyal noted that many global brands are expressing interest in associating with Indian products and marketing them worldwide, recognizing the significant business potential of traditional Indian crafts like the Kolhapuri chappal. He estimated that Kolhapuri chappals could have an international market potential of ₹8,000–10,000 crore.
While design inspiration alone may not constitute infringement without explicit commercial use of the GI name or origin, according to Indian GI legislation specialists, the controversy has served as a wake-up call for international firms entering the growing Indian luxury market. Cultural fluency and respect for traditional craftsmanship are becoming increasingly crucial for business survival in a globalized world. The "Prada Kolhapuri sandals" controversy exemplifies the ongoing struggle for artisan communities to gain recognition and economic justice in the face of exploitation by international brands.
