Maharashtra is taking significant steps to protect its traditional crafts and manufacturing skills, securing over 40 Geographical Indication (GI) tags for products specific to the region, including the renowned Kolhapuri chappal. This move aims to strengthen branding and secure copyright protection for local artisans and their products. The initiative comes in the wake of reports that Italian luxury brand Prada showcased footwear resembling the Kolhapuri chappal in its Spring-Summer 2026 menswear collection, sparking concerns about cultural appropriation.
A GI tag certifies that a product originates from a specific geographical area and possesses qualities or a reputation because of that origin. It serves as a powerful tool to preserve traditional knowledge, cultural heritage, and the livelihoods of local practitioners. The Kolhapuri chappal, a handcrafted leather footwear, received its GI tag in 2018, with the designation granted to four districts each in Maharashtra and Karnataka.
The recent controversy surrounding Prada's Kolhapuri-inspired footwear has highlighted the importance of GI tags in protecting traditional designs. While Prada has acknowledged the inspiration and expressed openness to dialogue with Indian artisans, the incident has raised questions about the extent to which GI tags offer sufficient protection in the international market. Some argue that in addition to GI tags, patenting traditional products is necessary to prevent infringement and ensure rightful recognition.
Maharashtra is committed to building brands manufactured in India that command global respect and value. As part of this commitment, the state government has proposed a One District One Product (ODOP) scheme, which will nurture 72 unique products, two from each district, that reflect the state's rich cultural and economic diversity. The ODOP scheme aims to enhance value chains, boost market access, and empower local producers.
The state is also in the process of obtaining 30 more GI tags in the coming months. In January 2025, the Union Minister of Commerce & Industry set a vision to increase the number of registered GI Tags in India to 10,000 by 2030, underlining its strategic importance in preserving traditional heritage and boosting exports. India has launched a unique GI logo along with the tagline — "Invaluable Treasures of Incredible India" — to foster awareness and distinguish authentic GI-tagged products.
The benefits of GI tags extend beyond legal protection. They boost exports and the local economy by helping producers secure premium prices in domestic and international markets. GI tags also promote sustainable livelihoods by supporting artisans, farmers, and small producers, and enhance cultural visibility by showcasing regional uniqueness and heritage.
Several initiatives are underway to strengthen the GI tag system in India. The ODOP initiative, under the Districts as Export Hubs (DEH) initiative, promotes GI-tagged and regionally significant products by linking them with branding and export strategies. The Open Network for Digital Commerce (ONDC) platform integrates GI-tagged products, enabling access to national and global markets for rural artisans and producers by facilitating e-commerce reach.
Recently, the sitars and tanpuras of Miraj, a town in Maharashtra's Sangli district known for its craftsmanship in making musical instruments, were awarded GI tags. This recognition is expected to boost the town's identity as a "music city" and promote tourism. Other products from Maharashtra that have received GI tags include Hupari Silver Craft, Vasmat Haldi (Turmeric), and Sawantwadi wooden craft.
While GI tags provide a crucial layer of protection, some argue that more needs to be done to support the artisans and weavers who create these traditional products. This includes providing access to credit, ensuring a steady supply of raw materials, creating platforms for reaching retail customers, and offering compensation in times of natural disasters. Some also suggest setting up exclusive GI shops and promoting GI products as gifts in government functions.
