The Bombay High Court on Wednesday dismissed a Public Interest Litigation (PIL) filed against the Italian fashion house Prada concerning the alleged unauthorized use of Kolhapuri chappals in their designs. The court raised questions about the legitimacy and statutory standing of the five advocates who filed the PIL, stating that they were not the aggrieved parties or the registered owners of the footwear.
The PIL, filed on July 2 by Intellectual Property Rights advocate Ganesh S Hingemire, sought a public apology from Prada and demanded compensation for Indian artisans, claiming the fashion house commercially exploited a product with a Geographical Indication (GI) tag. The petitioners argued that Prada's "toe-ring sandals," priced around ₹1.2 lakh, bore a striking resemblance to traditional Kolhapuri chappals and that the brand had not issued a formal apology or offered sufficient remedy to the artisans. They also requested the court to direct the government to protect Indian traditional designs and prevent international companies from infringing on GI-tagged products.
The bench, led by Chief Justice Alok Aradhe and Justice Sandeep Marne, questioned the public interest element in the petition, observing that any aggrieved person or the registered proprietor of the GI tag could independently seek legal recourse. The court stated that since the petitioners were neither the owners nor the producers of Kolhapuri chappals, they lacked the necessary locus standi to file the PIL. The bench further noted that if the court were to order insufficient compensation for a victim, the victim would have the right to appeal. The court dismissed the plea and said it would pass a detailed order later.
The controversy began when Prada featured sandals resembling Kolhapuri chappals in its Spring-Summer 2026 Men's collection, describing them as "leather sandals" without acknowledging their Indian origins. This sparked outrage in Indian fashion circles and among traditional artisans in Maharashtra, who viewed it as cultural appropriation and a violation of the GI-tagged footwear's heritage.
Kolhapuri chappals received a Geographical Indication (GI) tag in July 2019, granting exclusive rights to use the term "Kolhapuri chappal" to artisans in specific districts of Maharashtra and Karnataka. These handcrafted leather sandals have a history dating back to the 12th century and are known for their durability, intricate designs, and cultural significance. The GI tag aims to protect the cultural heritage, economic interests, and intellectual property rights of indigenous artisans.
Prada responded to the controversy by stating that the designs were "inspired by traditional Indian handcrafted footwear" and expressed willingness to engage in a "meaningful exchange with local Indian artisans". However, petitioners argued that this acknowledgment was insufficient and that Prada had not issued a formal apology or offered adequate compensation to the artisans.
While the Bombay High Court dismissed the PIL, the issue has brought attention to the importance of protecting traditional knowledge and cultural heritage. It also highlights the challenges faced by artisans in protecting their intellectual property rights against large international corporations.
