The recent "sandal scandal" involving Prada has ignited a wave of national pride among Indian brands, who are now strategically leveraging their heritage to boost sales, particularly of traditional footwear like Kolhapuri sandals. The controversy arose after Prada showcased designs in Milan that closely resembled Kolhapuri sandals without initially acknowledging their Indian origins. This sparked criticism from Indian artisans and a demand for due credit to be given to the cultural heritage.
Kolhapuri sandals, with a history dating back to the 12th century and crafted by around 7,000 artisans in India, have become the focal point of this heritage-driven sales surge. Following the controversy, sales have increased for these ethnic slippers, offering hope for the revival of a struggling craft. Social media platforms have been abuzz with criticism, sarcastic memes, and demands for recognition of Indian heritage from politicians, artisans, and trade bodies.
Several Indian brands and e-commerce platforms are capitalizing on this heightened awareness. Shopkop, for instance, saw sales of sandals sourced from local artisans jump five times the average, reaching 50,000 rupees ($584) in three days. Founder Rahul Parasu Kamble's open letter to Prada, emphasizing the tradition embedded in Kolhapuri sandals, was widely shared on social media, amplifying the call for recognition.
Other brands are employing various strategies to attract customers. Ira Soles, based in Mumbai, is running advertisements on Facebook and Instagram, highlighting that its "Tan Handcrafted Kolhapuris just walked the ramp at Prada". Niira, an e-commerce website, is offering discounts of up to 50% on its Kolhapuri slippers, emphasizing their "rooted in tradition". Niira founder Nishant Raut reported a tripling of sales for their $18 sandals that resembled Prada's design, and expressed aspirations for an Indian Kolhapuri brand to achieve the global recognition of a brand like Birkenstock.
Prada has responded to the controversy by stating its intention to hold follow-up meetings with artisans. The Italian company also indicated it may manufacture the sandals in India in collaboration with local manufacturers, should it commercialize them.
While India's luxury market is growing, Prada does not have retail stores in India, and its products are generally targeted toward wealthier consumers. Men's leather sandals from Prada retail starting at $844, whereas Kolhapuri sandals can be priced as low as $12. The linking of the Prada name to Kolhapuri sandals has presented a business opportunity for some.
Kolhapuri sandals are handmade in small factories and are often paired with Indian attire. They are also available through major retailers like Bata India and Metro Brands, as well as online platforms such as Amazon and Walmart's Flipkart. In 2021, the Indian government projected that Kolhapuri sandals could achieve $1 billion in annual exports. However, artisans note that the business has faced challenges as consumers have shifted towards more fashionable and upmarket footwear. Despite these challenges, the recent Prada controversy has injected new vitality into the craft, which Lalit Gandhi, president of Maharashtra's main industry lobby group, described as "a dying art". Gandhi is reportedly in discussions with Prada to potentially develop a co-branded, limited-edition sandal.
