Designing for iconic figures, whether a menacing villain like Mogambo or influential political leaders, presented unique challenges for men's dress designer Madhav Agasti. Agasti, a Mumbai-based designer with over five decades of experience, has dressed top politicians and actors, leaving an indelible mark on Indian fashion and cinema. His journey, which began with no formal training, led him to design costumes for over 350 films and to become a sought-after designer for the political elite.
Agasti's career took off when he designed the iconic costume for Mogambo in the 1987 blockbuster, Mr. India. He drew inspiration from military uniforms and royal robes to create a regal yet terrifying look. The process involved understanding the character's essence and translating it into a visual representation. Agasti recalls Amrish Puri's satisfaction with the costume, saying, "Madhav, Mogambo khush hua," signifying the look had become a part of cinema history.
Designing for political figures required a different approach. Agasti's clientele included four chief ministers, two Indian presidents, and numerous international personalities. He designed Balasaheb Thackeray's signature white shirt-style kurta and Kashmiri shawl, a look that became synonymous with the Shiv Sena founder. Agasti crafted a white kurta-pyjama that ensured Thackeray's legs wouldn't show in photographs. He also designed for veteran politicians such as Sharad Pawar, L.K. Advani, and former President Pranab Mukherjee. For Mukherjee, Agasti designed clothes from 2005 until his presidency. He also designed a bandhgala and trousers for President Ram Nath Kovind, keeping in mind his personality and status.
Agasti's skill lies in his ability to stitch clothes without taking measurements. He claims that he can visualize a person's measurements and stitch clothes that fit perfectly just by looking at them. His travels across India, mastering tailoring techniques from Aligarh to Lucknow and Chennai, shaped his understanding of diverse styles and preferences. This journey, starting from a small shop in Dadar called "Madhav's Men's Modes," eventually led him to rename it 'MMM' in 2012, marking a transition towards fresh concepts while upholding the pursuit of perfection.
Agasti's work extends beyond Bollywood villains and political leaders. He designed costumes for movies such as Andaz Apna Apna, Dilwale Dulhania Le Jayenge, Ghulam, Agneepath, Aashiqui, and Hera Pheri. In Dilwale Dulhania Le Jayenge, he gave Anupam Kher an 'Aligarh Pajama Kurta' with coat which gave him a different look. His designs ensured that each costume not only fit the character but also enhanced the narrative. He also provided the military uniforms for the 1973 film, Dhund.
Agasti received the Bharat Gaurav Award at the UK Parliament in London for designing Amrish 'Mogambo' Puri's costume and Bal Thackeray's kurta-shawl look. He is also preparing for the release of his memoir, 'Stitching Stardom,' which chronicles his journey of image-making across various fields.
In the ever-evolving world of fashion, Madhav Agasti remains a prominent figure, blending cultural heritage with contemporary trends. His journey from a small shop in Dadar to becoming the dressmaker of icons is a testament to his passion, perseverance, and artistry.
