Following a significant online backlash, the luxury brand Prada has recognized that its Spring/Summer 2026 menswear collection, showcased in Milan, drew inspiration from Indian craftsmanship, specifically Kolhapuri footwear. The brand's initial failure to acknowledge the cultural origins of the design sparked outrage in India and ignited a broader discussion about cultural appropriation in the fashion industry.
The controversial footwear, featuring open-toed leather sandals closely resembling traditional Kolhapuri chappals, was presented at the Milan Fashion Week. Kolhapuri chappals are handcrafted leather sandals that have been made by artisans in the states of Maharashtra and Karnataka for generations. The similarities between Prada's designs and the traditional Indian footwear were immediately apparent, leading to accusations of cultural appropriation when the brand did not initially credit the Indian artisans or the cultural legacy of the design.
The uproar quickly spread across social media platforms, with many users expressing their disappointment and accusing Prada of disregarding the cultural significance and heritage associated with Kolhapuri chappals. The Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry & Agriculture (MACCIA) also raised concerns, prompting Prada to address the controversy.
In response to the criticism, Prada acknowledged that the sandals featured in its Milan show were inspired by traditional Indian footwear from specific districts in Maharashtra and Karnataka. The company stated its commitment to responsible design practices, fostering cultural engagement, and opening a dialogue for a meaningful exchange with local Indian artisan communities. Lorenzo Bertelli, Prada Group Head of Corporate Social Responsibility, expressed deep recognition of the cultural significance of Indian craftsmanship in a letter to Lalit Gandhi, president of MACCIA.
However, this isn't the end of the story. The Sant Rohidas Leather Industries & Charmakar Development Corporation (LIDCOM), which shares the Geographical Indication (GI) certification for Kolhapuri chappals with Karnataka's LIDKAR, is considering legal action. The Kolhapuri chappals received GI designation on December 11, 2018, encompassing eight districts, four each in Maharashtra and Karnataka. BJP MP Dhananjay Mahadik led a group of Kolhapuri chappal artisans to meet with Maharashtra Chief Minister Devendra Fadnavis to demand action to protect the footwear's GI rights and cultural importance.
The incident has drawn attention to the larger issue of cultural appropriation in the fashion industry, where traditional designs and cultural elements are often adopted by luxury brands without proper acknowledgment, respect, or compensation to the original creators. This is not the first time an Indian design has appeared in global markets without proper credit. Calls for stronger enforcement of GI protections and greater awareness of ethical fashion practices are increasing.
Prada's version of the footwear is priced at over Rs 1 Lakh, while Kolhapuri chappals are widely available in Indian markets for around Rs 500. This disparity highlights the economic implications of cultural appropriation, where luxury brands profit from traditional designs while the original artisans may not receive fair compensation or recognition.
While Prada has taken steps to address the controversy by acknowledging the Indian inspiration and expressing a willingness to engage with local artisans, the incident serves as a reminder of the importance of cultural sensitivity and ethical practices in the fashion industry. It also underscores the need for luxury brands to move beyond mere acknowledgment and actively support the communities and artisans whose cultural heritage inspires their designs. Whether Prada will collaborate or fairly compensate the artisan communities remains to be seen.
