The recent Milan Fashion Week 2025 saw Prada unveil its Spring/Summer 2026 menswear collection, and while the designs were generally well-received, one particular item sparked a significant controversy: sandals that bore a striking resemblance to the traditional Indian Kolhapuri chappal. These open-toed leather sandals, presented as "leather sandals" by Prada, were quickly identified as being heavily inspired by the handcrafted footwear made by artisans in Maharashtra and Karnataka for generations.
The issue ignited a debate about cultural appropriation, with many questioning whether Prada had appropriately acknowledged the origins and cultural significance of the Kolhapuri chappal. The Kolhapuri chappal boasts a rich history, dating back to the 12th century, and holds a Geographical Indication (GI) tag, which was awarded in 2019, recognizing it as a traditional product from specific regions in Maharashtra and Karnataka. This tag protects the intellectual property rights of the artisans and the cultural heritage associated with the footwear.
Critics were quick to point out that Prada's sandals, reportedly priced around ₹1.2 lakh (approximately $1,500 USD), stood in stark contrast to the affordable alternatives crafted by local artisans, which can be found for under ₹500. The lack of acknowledgment of the Kolhapuri chappal's origin was seen as a missed opportunity to support and uplift the artisans who have dedicated their lives to preserving this traditional craft.
Following the backlash, Prada admitted that its Spring/Summer 2026 menswear line included footwear inspired by Kolhapuri chappals. In a statement, the luxury fashion brand acknowledged the "centuries-old heritage" and "cultural significance" of the traditional Indian footwear. Lorenzo Bertelli, Prada Group's head of corporate social responsibility, stated that the collection was still in the early stages of design development and that no pieces were confirmed for production or commercialization.
The controversy has brought attention to the challenges faced by Kolhapuri chappal artisans, who are struggling to maintain their livelihoods in the face of cheaper imitations and a shrinking market. Some argue that Prada's showcasing of the Kolhapuri-inspired design could have been an opportunity to promote the original craftsmanship and provide economic benefits to the artisans. However, others believe that the lack of proper credit and the high price tag only serve to exploit the cultural heritage without giving back to the community.
The incident has prompted calls for greater awareness and respect for traditional crafts and intellectual property rights. Some are urging Prada to collaborate with Kolhapuri artisans in a transparent and meaningful way, ensuring that they receive due credit and fair compensation for their expertise. Others are considering legal action to protect the GI tag and prevent further instances of cultural appropriation.
The debate surrounding Prada's Kolhapuri-inspired sandals highlights the complex relationship between fashion, culture, and intellectual property. It raises important questions about the responsibility of designers to acknowledge their sources of inspiration and the need to protect the livelihoods and cultural heritage of traditional artisans. As the fashion world becomes increasingly globalized, it is crucial to foster a culture of respect, collaboration, and fair compensation, ensuring that traditional crafts are celebrated and preserved for generations to come.
