Dior is facing backlash for a $200,000 coat featuring traditional Indian Mukaish embroidery, revealed at Paris Fashion Week, due to the brand's failure to acknowledge the craft's Indian heritage or credit the artisans involved. The unveiling of the coat, reportedly crafted by 12 skilled Indian artisans over more than a month, has sparked debate about cultural appropriation in the luxury fashion industry. This controversy follows a similar incident involving Prada and its Kolhapuri sandals, intensifying the discussion around the ethics of high fashion borrowing from traditional crafts without proper recognition.

Mukaish embroidery, also known as "badla work", is a traditional Indian hand embroidery technique that originates from Lucknow. This intricate craft involves using metallic threads to create delicate patterns, adding a shimmering effect to fabrics. Mukaish is often used to embellish Chikankari sarees, kurtas, and dupattas. According to reports, the houndstooth pattern on the Dior coat was meticulously created using this technique. Fashion content creator Hanan Besnovic highlighted that the embroidery was not "some fancy European handiwork" but Mukaish from Lucknow.

The lack of acknowledgment from Dior has been widely criticized. Despite the significant contribution of Indian artisans, the brand did not mention India or the artisans in its presentation. This omission has led to accusations of cultural appropriation, with many questioning why luxury brands often fail to credit the cultures and artisans behind their designs.

The situation has ignited a broader conversation about cultural appropriation versus appreciation in the fashion industry. When luxury brands incorporate cultural elements without giving credit, it raises concerns about exploitation and erasure of cultural heritage. Some argue that it is essential for brands to recognize and celebrate the origins of their designs, ensuring that the artisans and cultures are given due respect and recognition.

The Mukaish craft is reportedly dying in Lucknow, with few artisans still practicing the art. These artisans, also called Badla in Gujarat and Maharashtra, are a dwindling population. The creation of the Dior coat reportedly took 12 embroiderers 34 days to complete. Paying homage to the cultural legacy is important.

This incident serves as a reminder of the importance of ethical practices in the fashion industry. As luxury brands continue to draw inspiration from diverse cultures, it is crucial that they do so in a way that is respectful, transparent, and equitable. By giving credit where it is due, brands can help to preserve cultural heritage and support the livelihoods of artisans around the world.